Towards Lisbon Tuesday 7th August
We slipped Leixoes at 0715, bound for Figuera de Foz some 65
miles away. We had to wait to exit the harbour as an oil tanker was being
backed into its berth near the entrance. While waiting we chatted to two British
guys on a German registered yacht named Jura, heading south to Spain. We were
both bound for the same destination that evening so with a cheery “See you
later!”we were off.
For the next 3 ½ hours we were motor sailing, there is just
never enough wind in the morning and if we try to use our cruising chute the
wind falls out of it with the swells. With a distance of 60-70 miles between
stops each day we need to keep moving at at least 5kts.
A pretty uneventful sail until we arrived off Cabo Mondego
when we saw the yacht in front of us (Jura) get flattened by a huge gust of
wind. Before we could shorten sail we were hit by 30kts from a gentle 12-15kts,
totally over canvassed we rounded up hove to! Not really the place to be as we
were surrounded by fishing floats off the headland! Reducing sail we had a
brisk beam reach to the harbour entrance, turning North around the harbour wall
we dropped the sails and motored up the river, looking for the marina basin on
the north shore.
On the wall at Fig de Foz
Entrance was easy enough, we had to wait for another yacht
to move off the reception wall and we were checked in by the GNR policeman and
allocated a berth. We then had to go to the marina office to pay. The GNR
office also issued the key to the pontoon gates but the marina office has the
code for the toilets and showers. This means we have to go back to the
reception pontoon to return the key and get our €30 deposit back in the
morning. (The joys of cruising!)
The marina office is next to the yacht club, where Jura’s
crew were sitting outside enjoying a beer (recovering from their ordeal), so we
joined them for dinner. Prawns then grilled cod with baked new potatoes, Rowena
had the alternative pork fillet option with olives as a starter. Simple food
well cooked an excellent end to the day.
Wed 8th August
Not quite so early a
start today as we only have 40 miles to our next stop at Nazare. The log shows
we left at 0945 and arrived at 1730. We motor sailed in light winds all the
way. About 2miles off shore we had a surprise visitor: a big green dragonfly
crash landed under the sprayhood! He seemed quite exhausted and stayed with us
until lunchtime. No idea where he went.
The only other thing of note is I have now identified the
shearwaters - Coreys. Down here they
seem quite tame and stay sat in the water very close to the boat. I could see
the yellow and brown bill which is impossible when they are flying.
Nazare entrance - The speed limit is 3Kts!
Nazare is an interesting marina, we never saw the town as we
were only there for the night. Berthing is organised by Capt. Mike Hadley who
not only allocates your berth but helpfully lets you know how the tide is
running and the best way to come in. Years of parking super tankers must make
yachts seem tame by comparison but he is always right.
After checking in at the marina office there is the very
useful Louis grocery store and bar next door. Fresh bread is delivered twice a
day and everything from fresh fruit and veg, milk, beer and bottled gas is
available in a shop the size of most peoples front room! If we didn’t have to
be in Lisbon by the 10th we would have stayed a few days. Nazare has
been in a drought for several months as there has been no rain since November
2011. We could have drinking water if we needed but definitely no washing of
boats.
On our way back from the store we helped Jura’s crew moor up
and advised them of the water restrictions. Naturally we invited them for a
drink later. We now have a severe tonic drought!
Thursday 9th August Almost Lisbon.
An early start at
0645, Lisbon river entrance is some 75 miles away. We were advised by Capt.
Hadley to stay some 3.5M off the coast to catch a southerly flowing current. He
was right, keeping midway between the Isla da Berlenga and the mainland and
keeping 2 miles off Cabo de Roca we alternated between sailing and motor
sailing. As we rounded Cabo de Roca we were overtaken by a Portuguese Navy
frigate some 400m away! (A Portuguese man of war??)
We also had a telephone
call from our friends on Sandpiper asking where we were. They were in Oeiras
marina at the mouth of the Tagus river. We were heading for Cascais having a
gentle late afternoon sail but as there was a BBQ invite we dropped the sails
and motored the additional 5 miles to moor next to them at Oeiras marina.
Fort at Oeiras
A real surprise as we didn’t expect to see Anita and Cliff
again on this trip. A long day, 13hrs sailing and 76 miles, but a great welcome
– fog horn as we arrived and then a lovely chicken BBQ with friends.
A welcome beer and BBQ
Tomorrow we will motor up the river and find a berth in the
city centre for a few days sightseeing.
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