St Martin/Sint Maarten and passages South.

St Martin/Sint Maarten and passages South.

Couldn't resist this photo - This dolphin was next to the boat approaching St Martin

Anchored in Marigot bay on the French side of this jointly owned island, we are here where everyone says is the best place in the Caribbean to get parts for the boat.

Arriving at dawn

Marigot town is very French. The anchorage in the bay was very rolly while we were there as it is very open. Everyone assured us this was not normal, but it did not get better all the time we were there!  We were even going ashore in full ‘oilies’ as we were getting so wet in the dinghy. We don’t fancy being in the lagoon as it doesn’t look nice to swim in and is under the flight path of the Dutch airport.

Rolly Marigot bay

While it is nice to be amongst old friends, and a good social scene with ‘Horizons’, ‘Secret Smile’, ‘Paw Paw’ and ‘Impressionist’ to name a few, neither of us is very well. We seem to be having relapses of the Chickengunya we got back in the USVI’s.

A Sunday afternoon playing Mexican Train Dominoes

 

Boat issues are not helping the mood on board. The fridge switches off erratically, our batteries seem to flatten overnight; we still have a leaking stern gland.

Everyone says that this is the best place to get parts for the boat. We have decided to replace our domestic batteries as they are not holding their charge. Unfortunately none of the chandleries have the batteries we need. We could have got them in the BVI’s and there is some stock in Antigua, very frustrating!

We make a concerted effort to solve the fridge problem, and decide to rewire as there is a voltage drop between the batteries and the fridge compressor. This certainly stops the fridge switching off prematurely on the ‘low battery’ sensor but just manages to flatten the batteries even more!

With full batteries on a windy day, the fridge switches off by itself; nothing we can do will cause it to restart. Maybe the thermostat is faulty? Roy on Paw Paw has a spare I can try so we replace the thermostat, and the fridge starts. Maybe problem solved. Not so,  the following day we are back as before, erratic fridge, flat batteries, full batteries, warm beer, cold beer , fridge off again!

I think the new batteries will be the key to solving the fridge problems.

In between our relapses we manage to catch up with our friends but sadly did not spend as much time exploring ashore as we would normally do. 

Entering via the French bridge

As we dinghied ashore we could see some of the damage caused by last summer’s hurricane. Boats washed up on the beach, some still sunk in the lagoon, damaged boats awaiting repair in the boatyard a sad and sorry sight. There is still debris along the shore line and a lot of repair work being done to buildings.

A very sorry sight!

We held a passage planning session with ‘Paw Paw’ on Thursday afternoon, and if the weather is with us we will leave for Ile Fourchue on Sunday, overnight at the anchorage there and sail to St Kitts on the Monday, where will wait a couple of days for the wind to veer southerly before sailing to Antigua.

What started as a passage planning session, became a card session!

We will not hold our breath as with all weather dependent plans we are in the ‘lap of the Gods’.

We had a last few sundowner evenings to say good bye to friends going north, did some shopping including a very interesting boat jumble on the Saturday and awaited Sunday morning with bated breath!

Where are we going next?

Sunday dawned fair and still a good forecast. For once we seem to have a plan that is working.  Hugging the coast, we sail to the north of St Martin, then motor through the gap between St Martin and Ile Tintamarre. With an Easterly wind we were able to sail between Rocher Table and Ile Fourchue and motored into the anchorage.

Anchored Ile Fourchue

The horseshoe shaped bay is very pretty – a collapsed volcano so there are small hills nearly all around us. Several boobies fishing, a tropic bird and an occasional turtle enhance the idyll.  The island is private and the goats have eaten all the vegetation ashore. They have now all been removed and the plants are slowly recovering. As we are only stopping the night we didn’t go ashore (maybe next time). 

Leaving Ile Fourchue

Monday 0630, the wind is south of east, looks like we have a plan!  We set off at 0630 with St Barts to port and St Kitts already visible. We are able to sail to the NE corner of St Kitts when the mountains block the wind and we have to motor against the wind and current to our anchorage in the south at Whitehouse bay. On the way down we are quite close to shore and have lovely views of Brimstone Hill Fort, ruined distilleries, windmills and towers and the little towns. At least we have fully charged batteries but again no fridge!

Brimstone hill fort

The wind is supposed to veer to the South on Wednesday; this anchorage will be uncomfortable if that happens but at least we will have a good sail to Antigua.

Monday night was fine but by Tuesday evening the anchorage started to get rolly, with little shelter from the land we endure a rolly night. If the wind holds we will have a great sail tomorrow. 

Wednesday 0645, wind SSE force 4, at last plan ‘A’ is working! We motor out through the ‘Narrows’ and set sail for Antigua, 45 miles on a fine reach to Jolly harbour.  We sailed all the way, only furling the headsail as we reached the fairway buoy. We start the engine to drop the main and anchor between ‘Brisa’ and ‘Paw Paw’. An average speed of 5Kts all the way. Our best sail so far this season. Our goddess kept the seas fairly calm, the wind stayed fair and we feel we have come “home” to Jolly Harbours calm anchorage and lovely sunsets. 

Mosquito cove Jolly Harbour

We will check in tomorrow, arrange for the fridge and stern gland to be repaired and buy some new batteries.

Our 1st night at Jolly Harbour!

The BVI’s or ‘The Solent with Sunshine’!

The BVI’s or ‘The Solent with Sunshine’!

Yes it really is like that here. Sunsail, the Moorings and every other charter company seem to have a base here. The ‘credit card Yachtmasters’ are everywhere. Fortunately there are hundreds of mooring balls so they don’t have to anchor near us!

On a mooring Sopers Hole

After checking in at Sopers hole (West end Port) we spend our first night in the BVI's in the Bight on Norman Island. According to our pilot book there is an anchorage in the NE corner of the bay and also in the middle away from the 2 bars. Not so my friends -  everywhere is blanketed with payable moorings at US$30 per night. We manage to find a spot to anchor in 20m of water and let out all our chain (65m). Fortunately the wind is light and we are OK. We will have to find somewhere more suitable tomorrow as it is nearly sunset when we arrive.

Our plans are to do some diving and snorkelling. We are close to the ‘Indians’ a noted dive and snorkelling site and also close to the ‘Caves’. Unfortunately we both seem to have had a relapse of the Chickengunya symptoms we caught in St Thomas. The problem of this nasty mosquito borne disease is not only do you feel like you have got the flu but all your muscles and joints ache as well, like a bad case of arthritis. So we decide not to dive and to anchor round the corner in Benures Bay.

Our posh RYS visitor in Benures bay

Benures Bay is much better than the Bight. Anchored in 5m we are perfectly sheltered from both wind and waves (not a mooring ball in sight). The turquoise water is so clear we can see Bar Jacks around the boat as we anchor. Hundreds of white butterflies dance across the bay, birds call in the dense scrub and in the evening American Oystercatchers forage on the waters edge. Recovered from our ills (so we think) we enjoyed some lovely snorkelling close to the edge of the bay. The pretty little reef along the NE shore revealed 2 new species for us, a giant hermit crab in a conch shell and a new game fish, a Cero, alongside the normal reef species and colourful corals and sponges.

Scrawled Filefish in Benures Bay

We spend longer here than planned, partly because the weather was very squally with rough seas in the channel and also because we both had another relapse!

Yet another squally day!

With more settled weather we move over to Road Town for some shopping and to get VI sim cards for the phone and dongle. The anchorage off the marina wall is pretty rolly but we are graced with a mother and baby dolphin swimming a few feet from the boat. In a busy commercial port it was not something we expected to see. Tearing ourselves away from the dolphin watch we go to town and after lunch we are off to Great harbour on Peter island for the night. Anchored in front of the beach it is very crowded but we manage to find a spot.

Mother and Baby

With good weather forecast we decide to head to Tortola and then to Anegada. The weekend forecast is for no wind so we plan to sail there on the Friday and hang out until the wind returns.

Anchored in Anegada

Anegada is beautiful, the inner anchorage is filled with moorings but there is space to anchor outside when the weather is settled.

View while having dinner

Anchored off the dock in 3m of water we are settled here for a few days. We plan to do an Island tour and just enjoy the place. The highest point on the island is about 10m so the wind just blows straight across.

Easy rider eat your heart out!

This weekend there is no wind and we watch the charter boats motoring in and out having spent just the one night - shame!

One of the 3 grocery stores on the island - ASDA, Tesco take note!

We hire a motor scooter and tour the island, dirt roads and motor scooters are a tricky combination and we have a few scary moments!

The only fuel station on the island

The so called snorkelling MUSTS of Loblolly and Cow Wreck Bays prove very disappointing. The beaches are lovely but there is not much life below.

Anegada's indiginous Iguana - The sanctuary looks after them until they are 2years old and then released in the wild

Pruning Palm trees Cow Wreck Bay

Finally the wind returns on the Wednesday and we have a pleasant sail to Jost Van Dyke. Anchored off Little Jost Van Dyke we have a lovely view of Sandy Spit which looks just how a child would draw a deserted tropical island! Many Pelicans and Brown Boobies and quite good snorkelling with an occasional turtle make this a really nice anchorage.

The Bubbling Pool

A short dinghy ride takes us to the landing at Foxy’s Taboo. From there it is a short walk to the ‘Bubbly Pools’ where the sea crashes through a gap in the rocks creating a Jacuzzi effect. We eventually tore ourselves away and walked back past salt ponds with some interesting birds – Black Winged Stilts, Bermuda Ducks, Ruddy Turnstones and a new one for me – a tiny Wilsons Plover. We ended our excursion with a delicious lunch at Foxy’s.

From Little Jost Van Dyke we sailed to Great harbour on Jost Van Dyke but did not stop for long. The only reason we would come back here is for the biltong and Mrs Ball’s chutney at Rudy’s Superette.  From there it was a short sail to Cane Garden Bay on the North coast of Tortola, where we planned to visit the oldest continuously working Rum Distillery in the BVI’s. They produce 25 gallons a day for approximately 26 weeks, all in a small pot still. Their 4 brands are White, (straight out of the still), 4year old (aged in an oak barrel), 10year old (again aged in Oak barrels) and ‘Panty remover’ (4 year old with stick of sugar cane in it – a so called Lady’s drink!)

Callwood Distillery

We tasted them all, the White (paint stripper!), the 4 Year old (dark paint stripper but OK with a mixer), 10 year old, an OK sipping rum, and I cannot vouch for the accuracy of the ‘Panty remover’ but it tasted like rum with sugar syrup added.

The 'Original' cane press

Cane Garden bay is a pretty village with all amenities. The anchorage was as we expected full of moorings with little space to anchor. We struggled to get the anchor to set as the bottom was strewn with coral rubble and all the best sandy spots were taken. Snorkelling to check the anchor was set we saw a Spotted Eagle Ray right under the boat. There is always something to see.

Our thoughtful painter has painted all around him with no way of getting off the roof without walking on the newly painted! - Sopers Hole (Where else!)

From here we are back to Sopers hole for some more shopping and on to Great Harbour Peter island where we met up with ‘Right Turn’ who we last saw a year ago in Antigua. From here we are off to North sound Virgin Gorda to check out. Our plans are to sail to St Kitts as an overnight to St. Martin is normally too close to the wind.

Sundowners at the Oceans 7 Bar in Peter Island - Not exactly crowded!

We had planned to spend much more time diving and snorkelling in the BVI’s than we did as our ‘chicken disease’ really put paid to our plans. Still there is always next year?

As things turn out we manage to sail almost all the way to St Martin. We know our friends on Paw Paw will still be there and hopefully Impressionist as well. Anchored in Marigot bay after an overnight passage we are also surprised to find Secret Smile are here as well - could get a bit sociable if we are not careful!  

What happens if you make ice cubes going to windward!

The ‘Sirens’ of Charlotte Amalie!

The ‘Sirens’ of Charlotte Amalie!

For us Charlotte Amalie is a place we seem to have difficulty getting away from. As usual we always seem to arrive in the middle of a rainstorm!

We anchor up in a stiff breeze and dive below just as the heavens opened! If we had a few more minutes warning we would have rigged the rain catchers. As it was it managed to rain heavily and blows a gale all afternoon. Not the best day for doing the laundry!

Almost enough water for a bath!

As always there is usually someone we know in the anchorage, ‘Tranquillity’ is here from Bonaire, ‘Remedy’ are also here, and it appears they didn’t move all summer! The following day ‘Cheetah II’ comes into the anchorage, friends old and new. If we network enough we could meet everyone in the anchorage! 

That is not the plan, we are going to be disciplined, do the few jobs that we need to do and move on to St John, then the BVI’s. Hopefully by Xmas.

With strong winds forecast for the coming weekend we get our domestic chores done, fill the propane tank and re-stitch our sprayhood as the stitching is coming undone in places. As we have decided to stay for the next few days until the wind dies down we order our new stern gland seal. As it is coming from Florida it should be here on the Monday before Xmas.

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 We Party on the Friday night as we watch the lighted parade of boats, and enjoy the Xmas festivities with the local pan bands and food stalls. 

The quality is as good as it gets

We decamp to Lindbergh bay for the weekend as we can swim there and it is a bit less hectic than all the cruise ship activity in the main harbour. 

Sunset in Lindburgh bay

We will be back on Monday and collect our package; the tracking says it is scheduled for delivery on Monday, great!

The short cut to Lindburgh bay via the 'cut'. Yes it really is only 30m wide and 3m deep, reefs on both sides and used by the fast ferries!

Aah, isn’t the US postal service wonderful, it seems our package managed to miss the delivery round on Monday so should be delivered Tuesday. We sit and wait, admiring the world going by, and some of our neighbours not going by!

 Yes they really do anchor that close to you. I don’t think we will be inviting them for drinks though!

We should not complain as there is always something to see, We were lucky to spot some dolphins in the anchorage as we were going ashore, closer inspection revealed there was at least one new born baby dolphin with the mother, it is a real privilege to see wildlife close up and in such a busy bay.

Yes they really were that close!

Tuesday, Package day! No package, tracking says it has been delivered, the marina can find no trace of it, the Post office know it is ‘on Island’, it could be at another marina or maybe back at the local sorting office, perhaps it will be delivered Wednesday. Wednesday is Xmas eve! I have a bad feeling about this, ‘Island time’ and holidays are not a good combination for getting things to happen.

Looks like we are here for Xmas, you see this is somewhere you really cannot get away from! 

Galene in festive spirit

We invite Charlee from ‘My Way’ for Xmas lunch and guess what the bloody propane runs out mid-way through cooking! So much for the ‘fill’ in Culebra. The good news is that Boxing Day is not a holiday here so we can get the cylinder filled immediately. 

Xmas Lunch

Another bit of good news is that our package has finally arrived. We cannot blame the Postal service it appears that one line of the address was left off the address label! So we are now good to go. Oh yes I forgot to mention the strong winds and big seas from the North east forecast for the weekend, the anchorage is filling up as yachts arrive from the less sheltered coves. 

Our 'space age' neighbours

You see what I mean when I say you just cannot get away! The weather looks unsettled until the New Year so we might as well stop for the fireworks on New Year’s Eve.

We finally get away on Wednesday 7^th January! Having arrived in Brewers Bay St Thomas on the 13^th December 3 & ½ weeks ago! Motor sailing into a steady chop we make our way NE against the wind and tide towards ‘Current cut’, we plan to hit the cut at slack water and have a favourable tide in Pillsbury sound to sail to Francis bay on St Thomas. 

The plan works perfectly, we catch a fair tide through the ‘cut’ and sail up Pillsbury sound, only having to motor into the bay where we pick up one of the National Park Moorings. The charge is $15 a night, we only plan to stay one night then off to the BVI’s where we will check into Sopers Hole on the western end of Tortola.

On the mooring at Sopers Hole

With only 15kt winds on the nose we motor sail easily across the Narrows  to Tortola and pick up a mooring in the harbour while we check in, have lunch and do a little shopping. This has just to be one of the friendliest places to check in in the Caribbean. HM Customs and Immigration officers that smile, just fill in the forms, pay the fee, everyone is very polite, ‘yea I fine Mon’! We will stay until the end of January.