Carriacou!
Back again but still no progress on the engine front,
frustration deluxe!
After a flurry of e-mails it seems that we cannot solve the
problem, Volvo and Golden Marine keep coming up with the wrong part despite
having originally supplied two of the correct parts. We are now looking to
source the part from elsewhere. The problem still exists of how we get it out
here.
We finally manage to find the correct part from Diesel Technique
in the UK. They will post it to Ruth who will bring it out to St Lucia with
her. A big thank you must go to Mark Smith and Andy Hewing for their prompt
response.
While all this is
going on we might as well enjoy the Carriacou cruising life.
We woke one morning to the sight of an old ferry sinking on it's mooring! - It was pumped out and the hole 'fixed' with underwater epoxy. Aparently it is a fairly frequent occurence! |
We attended Youthlin’s Cultural Evening before Xmas, an
evening of local drumming, dancing, and music with very African rhythms.
The
dancers are in traditional costume, men and women though the drummers are
traditionally only men.
This was followed by the ‘Shakespeare Mass’ where the
performers attempt to outdo each other by quoting from
Shakespeare texts in really outlandish costumes.The audience are really
involved and clap when they do well and boo if they get it wrong. Amazing! The
evening culminated in more contemporary Penang and Calypso style music. A very
interesting glimpse into Carriacou traditions.
Woe betide you if you forget your lines! |
The Shakespeare dates from slave days. The slave owners
would teach the slaves the Shakespeare and would have competitions between
plantations. Even though harsh punishments were apparently meted out if they
got it wrong, they have maintained the tradition. It is only here on Carricaou.
Local food was also available, cooked traditionally outside
on open fires and BBQ of course.
Youthlin, who was
also one of the dancers spoke to us afterwards. They are really pleased when
non locals come. We asked her if this was a regular event and she said “Yes,
every year, the last weekend in November.” Deadpan. So, definitely a note for
your diary if you are here in November.
Sabrena - The next Beverly Knight? |
The big event was to be a concert by Sabrena, a local Grenadian
artiste at the ‘Off the Hook Bar’ on Paradise Beach. Sabrena was promoting her
soon to be released 1st album of songs. Some were cover versions of
popular blues/rock numbers and some material written by herself and her
sister.These topical ballads described island life from a young woman’s view.
The concert at the beach was enjoyed by locals and cruisers alike and we are
really glad we were there.
Kareoke in Levi's Bar, note the real musicians - You just have to join in! |
Aside from the more formal events, we had the usual rounds
of sundowners and visits to local bars and restaurants with other cruisers. We
calculated there are about 22 establishments in Tyrell bay, but we have only
managed to visit 14 of them so far! So you can see there is always something to
do. As cruisers we are always meeting new and catching up with old friends. ‘Euan Mara’ who had just crossed the Atlantic,
their landfall was Carriacou, well done, and a nicer landfall you couldn’t get.
‘Infini’ who have almost completed their circumnavigation, ‘Crazy Diamond’ who
probably have circumnavigated, having been to Australia by both the Pacific and
Indian Oceans! We also caught up with ‘Mistress’ who we first met and last saw
2 years ago.
Just to dispel any thoughts that all we do is eat and drink,
we also managed a few different excursions. We had a walk to another secluded
bay for some good snorkelling.
On 'Safari'! |
The scenery looked very African – long straight
grass, fences made from rough branches and barbed wire, goats wandering around
and even a muddy waterhole.
An Ideal spot for lunch in Hillsborough - after a hard mornings shopping! |
Another day we walked all the way to Hillsborough
along the sea shore. For quite a bit we had to scramble through thick mangroves
and coming back to sea one time we saw a small lemon shark swimming in the
shallows!
Hiking through the mangroves |
We scheduled a couple of dives
Bluebell tunicates - they really are this blue |
A shy Trunkfish |
including a Lion fish hunt (where
Richard bagged two),
Got it! |
had a weekend at Sandy island where the snorkelling was
excellent
A French grunt in the shallows off Sandy island |
and visited the neighbouring islands of Petit Martinique and Petit St
Vincent.
Anchored off Petit St Vincent |
The latter is just an exclusive resort, yachties are welcome to use
the beach bar but the island is private. At their prices they won’t be getting
much of our business!
This Ferry picked up a mooring off Petit Martinique - no help just 2 on board! |
Petit Martinique is quaint
and very rural.
If you think
Carriacou is laid back,
Not seeen much action lately! |
Petit Martinique is horizontal!
The Anchorage in Petit Martinique |
Finally with our injector delivery arranged we manage to
head north. Richard’s daughter and her husband are coming to St Lucia in
February for the school half term so we need to be there to meet them.
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